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NEW FOR 2019! I'm currently in the process of updating this site after my 2018 ride across Europe. You can read more about that in my new book, Biking Broken Europe.

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Cycling in Moldova

Moldova In A Nutshell

Moldova does countryside well but fails miserably at towns especially its traffic-clogged capital, Chisinau.

When I Went To Moldova

30th April - 5th May 2013

Where I Went

Moldova-specific Issues

The UK Foreign Office suggests care is needed if you travel to Transnistria, the breakaway region along Moldova's eastern border.

Moldova's Scenery

The country feels at times like a giant allotment where every inch of space in every garden is given over to growing vegetables. There is a lot of beauty to be had a few tens of miles north of Chisinau.

Moldova's Road Quality

Moldova continues the pothole theme that starts in Romania and reaches its climax in Ukraine. Even many of the main roads would be better suited to mountain bike tyres.

In many places but especially in Chisinau, road signs seemed to have fallen out of fashion. You will often find roundabouts with four exits and no clues.

Moldova's Accommodation & Costs

Moldova has no campsites and few hotels. The hotels it does have are not as cheap as you might expect in Europe's poorest country although compared to the UK they are almost free. My four hotels averaged €25 (ranging from €19 to €31).

At a restaurant in Balti a large pizza and two pints came to €6.


Learning a little bit of Russian will get you a long way. You might get some English out of the young but don't count on it.

Reasons To Go To Moldova

Curiosity, as a practice for Ukraine.

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